Day 47 & 48: Stick a Fork in It


Date:Tuesday, October 9, 2018

Wednesday, October 10, 2018

Start:Ibis Toulouse Center, Toulouse
Stop:Pullman International Hotel, Toulouse
Total Walking Distance:802 km  or  498 miles
Total Ascent:10185 meters or 33415 ft
Total Descent:-11080 meters  or  -36352 ft
Cumulative Elevation:21265 meters or 69767 ft

I spent an extra day in Toulouse, planning on doing some touristy things that I had missed the first time, e.g. visit the the aerospace museum. But I spent my extra day in a cloud of ennui, something not uncommon when a camino family breaks up. Instead, I did laundry and then halfheartedly looked for information on detouring thru Lourdes. Chemin d’Arles doesn’t go thru Lourdes but it is an easy detour and an easy return to the trail. Other than that, I sat in expensive tourist cafes in Capitole de Toulouse (historical square in the center of city), watching a huge stage being erected. Probably a concert over the weekend.

Capitole de Toulouse
Capitole de Toulouse

The next norming, I got up and started walking. Over an hour later, i’m still going thru the city. Probably a mistake. Most guides tell you to skip the long walk out of Toulouse. I’m not feeling it. Despite the 30+ days of walking, my bag feels very heavy. It hangs heavy on my back. I can’t seem to get it adjusted just right. My feet also feel very heavy. I’m not feeling it. On the other side of the street is a light rail stop.

A train pulls up.

I stop and watch it.

People get off.

People get on.

It moves on.

I stand there for a while.

I keep walking. I think this train goes to the airport. I pass another stop.

I keep walking. Then another stop.

I run across the street and check the route map. Yes, it does go by the airport. I pull up the United app on my phone and there is a flight early tomorrow morning. Seats are available. I hesitate. I quickly check to see if there are hotels near the airport. Plenty of hotels. A train pulls up. Not the airport one. I quickly book a flight. I buy a train ticket. Start looking for a hotel within walking distance of the airport. Train pulls up. It’s the one to the airport. I hop on before I can book the hotel.

On the train, I decide to book the hotel.

Closest one is full.

No problem.

Next one. Full.

No worries. Plenty of hotels.

I am at the airport within a couple of stops. I find a place to sit and continue my search.

Everything near the airport is full.

I really wanted to stay near the airport because my flight, the next morning, is at 5 am. Ok, fine. I don’t have a choice. I start looking further and further out from the airport. Nothing. WTF!!!! I finally find one room at the Pullman International, which is in the city center. And befitting the last room in town, it is really expensive. I book it. Hop on the train and return back to the the city center.

The next morning, I catch an Uber (no trains that early) to the airport. And I am home by that afternoon.

On the long flight home, I decide . . .

Stick a fork in me. I am done. Not just with this trip but also these long walks that I have been taking for the last five years. Nothing against Chemin d’Arles. It is a beautiful walk with a lot of fascinating, historical sites along the way but my heart is no longer in it. I wonder if there is a market, in Houston, for used but well kept backpacking gear.

The picture at the top of the post is of a statue of St Jacques at Toulouse’s Cathédrale Saint-Étienne (Saint Stephen’s Cathedral). Chemin d’Arles is part of the the network of trails that are part of a 1000+ year old Catholic pilgrimage known collectively as the Way of St. James. Or Chemin de St. Jacques in France and Camino de Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

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