Day 25: Bad Donut, No Donut

Day 25
Date: Friday, Sep 30, 2016
Start: Arcade
Stop: Albergue Catro Canos, Tivo     👍
Distance (Day/Total): 33/590 km
High Temp: 22 C/72 F

A single thumbs up or down is simply an indication of whether I would stay there again or not.  It is not a recommendation.  A double thumbs up or down indicates that the place was great and I highly recommend it or absolutely awful and stay away.

Started at 6:45 am but Spain is an hour ahead, so, it’s really 5:45 am, Portugal time.  It was dark and nothing was stirring as I made my way out of town.  While still in town, the trail turned off the road to a sharp drop that I nearly missed in the dark.  The turn arrow was on a rock, sitting below road grade.  Only caught it because, in the dark, I repeatedly check Google Maps.  This is the first time that I downloaded GPS waypoints for a trail and can’t imagine doing another hike without them.

Poneverda, Spain

Ponteverda is large city of over 80,000 people (city and municipality), about 11 km from Arcade.  I get into town around 9 am, in the middle of rush hour with people scurrying to work.

I stop for breakfast and find a bakery that has the one and only donut in Spain.  It looks great and order that and a coffee.The donut is awful.  The coffee is great.


A stone cross outside Ponteverda.  Very common.


What’s not common is a pirate ship in the middle of a field, surrounded by vineyards.

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I was heading to Caldas de Rei but then come across this albergue, right on the camino on the outskirts of town.  It’s around 2 km from the town center, in the middle of farms and houses and nothing else nearby.  It has a restaurant and bar.  I decide to stop here.  Shower and laundry.  Explore.  Not much to see.  I return to the bar.

I meet a Dutch woman who lives nearby.  She came here 15 years ago, met a guy, got married and has remained.  She helps out at the albergue when it gets really busy and/or she is bored.  They’re not too busy, today.  There are several dorms rooms.  Hard to tell but I would guess probably a dozen people spending the night.  I’m in the front room with 6 beds.  There is a really cute older Italian/German couple.  They had met on the camino a few years ago, walked together and gotten married.  I see them several more times and actually hear their story in Muxia.  There is also a British/New Zealand guy, who I’ll talk to and will see several more times also.  He is a freelance IT guy and lives and works in Lisbon with his girlfriend.  We talk about Brexit.  He doesn’t seem too worried.

Had dinner with two Finnish ladies and the guy from Britain/New Zealand.

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